Anti-viral Treatments on Leather Furnishings and Goods: Proceed With Caution! The Fine Leather Blog

Most of us are now hunkered down into our homes for an extended period of time. Some are online searching for solutions to quash any possibility of coronavirus Covid-19 on their possessions,…including leather goods… in their various forms. I’m reading a number of frankly feeble articles on this subject published by major news sources…and they’re of little help to the consumer. You don’t need to be told at this moment to keep your handbag tidy or to clean it with routine products which don’t kill viruses. What people want to know is how to minimize their potential Covid-19 exposure on leather items they already own… which may possibly be contaminated…without ruining them!

Some will be researching services to come into their homes when restrictions are lifted, with the intent to do an anti-viral “Spring Cleaning” for peace of mind. Some are searching to disinfect leather in corporate boardrooms, building lobbies, restaurants or private aviation to protect their investments. Some may be luxury houses seeking to sterilize their stock and boutiques before reopening their doors. There are indeed solutions for each, but “one size fits all” does NOT apply here! Please read on…

In my last blog post [HERE], I offered practical tips for the consumer to safely disinfect their handbags and gloves. Leather or shearling jackets, coats and other garments can also be treated the same way. Hang in direct sunlight rotating for an hour or two( clip up the arms if needed after an hour, so every inch has been exposed to the sun!) then turn inside out and do the same for an hour. This will expose the inside of the cuffs and hems…normally germ concentrated areas.

There are UV disinfecting lamps and wands available of varying quality and strength. Most appear to be out of stock as of this writing. If you already possess a travel size unit, know it’s output is for small jobs such as cell phones, remotes and door handles. Lamps capable of treating rooms CANNOT be used while occupied. Instructions must be followed exactly. Pets and plants need to be removed as well and a specific time period is required for the ozone these lamps produce to dissipate before re-entry. These are impractical for larger applications which can be accomplished by professionals proficient in leather care.

I’m currently re-dyeing a shearling jacket that was unevenly lightened 5 shades when placed in front of an ozone machine to remove cigar odors! While ozone machines are not common in homes (nor should they be), UV lamps could replicate the same disaster if improperly used!

I’m seeing a number of home cleaning companies advertising for disinfection services. A few of these specifically state they do leather, yet they’re holding the wand of a steam cleaner in the images on their “leather services” page! DO NOT allow anyone to use a steam cleaner on your leather! Heat + moisture will shrink, warp and deform the hide. It’s usually permanent. This is why wet leather shoes and leather gloves should never be placed by a heat source to dry.

Any disinfectant wipes currently on the market are NOT suitable for leather, nor will they kill viruses. Alcohol mixtures recommended by the CDC on hard surfaces aren’t suitable either, you risk damage to the protective finish and color on painted/colored leather and possible staining on untreated leather. Some current leather care products on the market may be anti-bacterial, but none are anti-viral, which is the area of concern here.

Bleach solutions of any kind are the “kiss of death” for leather. You’ve been warned!

One of the few leather-safe products that kills 99.999% of all viruses (including prior strains of human coronavirus) are hospital grade “quaternary disinfectants”. Properly applied after cleaning… then removed… these are safe for most leathers and ideal for larger items. Like the above these are currently unavailable, being rightfully diverted to hospitals, the military, first responders and should be applied by a pro.

So for the duration, hopefully the above is helpful to both consumers and to various businesses now strategizing to return to normalcy as quickly as possible. We certainly have the time to plan wisely!

Stay home, STAY HEALTHY!

Covid-19/Coronavirus On Your Leather??? Tips You Can use NOW! The Fine Leather Blog

It’s been an interesting week so far….

It began with a call from a clothing rental company. “We’re getting calls from concerned customers about renting the bags asking if they’re treated to prevent transmission from household to household… just in case? Can you help?”

Well, I only work on bags unless it’s a color, finish , stain or a leather damage issue; there are plenty of qualified shops in NYC that can fix stitching and replace hardware, so I’ll leave that to them. That said, I usually have a few cross my bench each month. A Tom Ford tote just went back to it’s owner.. I’ve a Bottega Venetta in process next to me. I’m taking a breather here while it’s curing. But this was not the usual inquiry, and it got me thinking…

There are a goodly amount of institutional -grade disinfectants out there, but there are very few that are safe to use on most leather. I happen to possess a decent amount of one brand, which I’m told is now…like masks, wipes and possibly toilet paper from what I’ve read… sold out everywhere.

A hospital-grade product not only kills bacteria…like our bathroom cleaners at home…but also kills viruses, a “virucide’. Some home cleaners are virucidal as well, but they can’t be used on leather.

This situation is a first for most of us. Panic accomplishes nothing. But if an individual wants to go the extra mile of precaution for their peace of mind, so be it. Where to start for the average leather handbag or backpack? Hopefully, you’ve done regular cleaning and conditioning. If so, your item is considerably less germy than one that was neglected and will be easier to clean. But how to zap corona virus that may have possibly alighted on the surface while you were on the subway or in the Uber without ruining the bag? Alcohol is very risky as it will dissolve most finishes. I use it constantly in my work and there’s a time and place for it…but it’s for pros. You won’t be able to get the industrial stuff mentioned above, but I’ll tell you what you can do to greatly minimize the virus living for up 9 days on your leather and it’s FREE…yes, FREE!

Ever hear the old saying “sunshine is the best disinfectant”? Nowadays it’s usually used to refer to bringing transparency to an issue; but sunshine…AKA UV light…is indeed an excellent virus killer! Placing in direct sunlight near a window (without UV protective film!) and rotating over a period of a few hours will do for the outside. But exposure has to be thorough, even if it means propping the bag open with a pencil or bamboo skewer for the sun to shine inside as well. You can prop outer side pockets open with popsicle sticks or toothpicks… tilt toward the sun if you need to… you want as little sun blockage as possible. This is IDEAL for viruses on leather gloves as well…which we’re all likely going to extend wearing this Spring… an hour or so on each side, spread the fingers then wash your hands! A smart home practice is to have a spot on a counter or table away from food prep with a small towel the bag/gloves can rest on at home, and the towel can be changed and washed with bleach as often as you’re comfortable with.

3/27 UPDATE- Your leather jackets, coats and other accessories can be treated the same way. Make certain every inch had been exposed to sunlight for a minimum 15 minutes. Jackets and clothing: turn inside out and repeat this step to treat completely…the inside of cuffs, sleeves and hems are germ concentration points. Clip up sleeves if needed so the sunlight can reach under sleeves.

3/31 UPDATE: In a USA TODAY article 3-30-2020: While the article focused on sunshine on the human body rather than items, there is still significant debate. Historically, sunlight has been an enemy of viruses. This article suggests the Covid-19 virus requires stronger UV exposure than sunlight…such as professional UV light treatments…which would cause the body to sunburn. As we are focused on leather articles, I’ll stand by prior suggestions in this post, but will update it as facts present themselves. It will take a while for definitive data on this particular strain to emerge. In the meantime, we will…like others… go by existing data on the related SARS and H1N1 viruses until proof of otherwise. View their article here: https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/factcheck/2020/03/30/fact-check-sunlight-does-not-kill-new-coronavirus/2931170001/

NOTE: For ANY treatment of anything in the home: use only products and mixtures recommended by the CDC and WHO; however, their list left out several other products (mostly institutional) with proven anti-viral abilities. You can check your own products or those being advertised by Googling the product’s name + MSDS (Master Safety Data Sheet). That sheet, while lengthy…is the bottom line on whether the product is a virucide, killing 99.999% of viruses. If there’s no mention, it doesn’t. There are companies out there claiming to offer various sanitizing/disinfection services. Insist on seeing the data sheet of the products they’re using.

While Covid-19/coronavirus on leather furniture may not be a priority unless in a hotel lobby, restaurant or conference room, it requires a pro…at least initially…to treat and create a corona virus protocol going forward. So it appears I’ve added a few services to the roster I could never have imagined.

Hopefully they’ll be short-lived! Stay well, we’ll get through this together!

Care BEFORE you wear or use! Protecting your leather-The Fine Leather Blog

Okay, you just bought that terrific leather jacket, handbag or the new leather sofa was just delivered. Now is the most crucial window to get a base of protection on these that will require refreshing with consistent regular maintenance.

Why? Applying protection now will:

• Fill in the leather’s pores (not to be confused with sealing them) preventing liquids and soil from getting deeply ingrained, making cleaning the leather much, much easier.

• Doing this also creates a thin film that protect’s the leather…whether coated leather or aniline…and helps to repel contact soiling. Suede protectors coat the fibers in much the same way. Examples of contact soiling are: putting your handbag on a counter, floor, shopping cart seat etc. Jeans dye transfer on a leather seat or side of a bag is another example. It can be as simple as rubbing up against someone is an elevator, a subway car or any mass transportation seating. You’re not immune in an Uber either. Every time your garment comes in contact with the outside world…there’s a micro-transfer of environmental dirt; it just takes awhile to accumulate enough to grab your attention!

• Leather sofas and chairs acquire similar soiling from pets, newspaper ink, body oils and again, jeans… never mind food and drink mishaps. This dirt slowly builds up over time if maintenance isn’t done regularly, until one day you look and think “Wow, this looks grubby”. By then, you’ve waited too long to clean and condition your leather and you may have just compromised your future results and shortened the leather’s lifespan. Protection and regular maintenance pays off…example:

I have an everyday Rebecca Minkoff bag I protected upon arrival. I’ve used it an average of 6 days a week Autumn through Spring. I’ve given it a basic cleaning/reapplied a protection conditioner about every 3 months…the change of seasons. Below are images of it after 2 years constant use:

Above I show the side of the leather bag that would normally be against my body, a side view, and most tellingly…the bottom. Go ahead…zoom in. Pretty good condition for 2 years constant use, yes? I haven’t done any leather color touch-up, just consistent routine care. These are results anyone can achieve when cleaning and conditioning leather on a consistent basis. Tip: put the chore into your phone’s reminders!

The ideal “foundation” conditioner doesn’t darken leather when applied, or darkens slightly until the leather has dried then leaves no apparent change in shade. The cleaner and conditioner I rely on for finer leather garments, furniture and accessories comes in a kit for the consumer, which is available here: https://amzn.to/2ufBW5a . Understand this is currently the ONLY cleaner/conditioning products I’m currently recommending for consumer use. There are many different products on the market and most are not for every leather type. Whe I find another I’ll post it. It is the consumer’s responsibility to read and follow directions. When in doubt, call their Consumer Hotline BEFORE you begin!

Now here’s an example of total neglect…however unintentional… by someone who wore this jacket as her everyday “go-to” yet never protected or cleaned it until she got caught in the rain which revealed how dirty it really was.:

Ever get your car washed and in less than 48 hours a brief small amount of rain passes over…and your car is left with dappled dirt spots? Well, that’s what rain stains are; the dirt on the surface of the jacket was displaced by the rain drops that hit it. It takes a serious amount of surface dirt to get like this, in addition to the greasy food stains and else I found.

Despite wet-cleaning and quite a bit of pre-spotting…one can stress lamb leather just so much. In this case the only option was to match the original color at an inside seam and then apply colorant and finish. The results below:

“Rain-stained” leather jacket after cleaning and applying original color. “Rain-stains” are caused by water droplets pushing around dirt on leather.

Not protecting suede from the start is just foolish, especially if it’s a medium to lighter shade. Suede will “mark” if struck against itself in footwear. Using the right protection spray can actually repel the soil …greatly reducing if not eliminating marking…as well as keep them cleaner longer. Below are my fav Cole Haan suede over-the-knee boots. I did a thorough application of protector (completely wetting the suede as directed) hung them side by side on a skirt clip hanger until dry and then brushed them out with a soft horsehair suede brush, used for finer suede and nubuck. See the markings of the boot on the right?

That’s just the “nap” that was pushed all around by the tissue paper I keep in the box with them. They brush right out with the soft brush (R). The stiff suede brush (L) is for mud, salt removal and thicker , heavier suede such as cow. And while we’re at it…getting clear toe taps put on at the start is another smart move. It prevents you from scraping your toe tip..which can easily rip open with suede…is difficult to repair ( = $$$) and protects that area of the soles. Not all cobblers bother to carry the clear versions but you can find them online; buy a handful, they’re very cheap and you may need to replace more than once a year depending on # of wearings. My local shoe guy puts them on for me half-price to cover his labor.

Next up is this loose back cushion. My best guess is someone got out of the shower and wasn’t completely dry when they leaned back into it. So that’s a combo of water, body oil/soap residue that stained it. Had this had an application of protector when the chairs arrived, staining would have been minimized if not eliminated, but sitting on leather when you’re damp or sweaty is never a good idea! It was cleaned (yet the stains didn’t budge) so we covered them up with matched color and finish.

How to apply that base protection on new Leather

1. Give yourself at least 45 minutes to an hour for a jacket, shoes or bag and an afternoon for a sofa.

2. Use a soft, fine sponge (No kitchen sponges or those add-water pop-up types!) I recommend tack (horse harness) sponges for clothes and accessories. A bag of 1 dozen is very inexpensive. Keep separate ones for light, medium and dark colors. Link:

   https://amzn.to/2OqGBZa

   Here are similar sponges in a larger size for furniture…cut them in half if you’d like:

   https://amzn.to/2GN0d5E

3. On clothing and accessories: Use a clean DRY small soft sponge. Apply the protecting conditioner directly ONTO THE SPONGE.. NEVER APPLY CLEANER OR CONDITIONER DIRECTLY ONTO LEATHER. Why? If the leather is “thirsty” it may absorb that dollop you just applied onto to it so fast that you’ll be left with a darker area there than the rest of the leather panel. Put a nickle-sized dollop on the flat side of the sponge and spread thoroughly edge to edge achieving a thin layer. Test a small wipe in a hidden area. If it darkens, don’t panic, but you’ll need to work briskly over the piece so all areas are somewhat evenly darkened. . This temporary effect is common in aniline leathers…particularly lambskin. Do one panel (section of leather seam-to-seam) at a time, then move to the next. Then hang away from heat to dry naturally. You’ll see the dark fading as it dries. Then buff with a clean soft terry or flannel rag.

4. Cleaning is performed the same way, but constantly turning the sponge/rag to a clean spot as it becomes dirty. Repeat until the rag stays clean. Allow to thoroughly dry (DO NOT BLOWDRY! You could distort the leather!) then apply conditioner as above…again buffing when dry. Use the same technique for furniture with a larger sponge to apply and more rags to wipe until they come up clean. Work on one cushion panel/armrest/headrest at a time. This takes effort. With furniture it’s better to do half the sections completely, and finishing the rest another day than a poor job in one shot!

Applying a thin even film of protecting conditioner one row at a time.

WARNING! Kidskin,…AKA baby goatskin …which is rarely used other than in gloves, will turn yellow with ANY type of liquid if light colored. These pieces are pro-clean only. I encountered a pair of white leggings recently by a major European design house that were kid, but the label didn’t state this. It was a poor leather choice for the company as the consumer would later find out when she was advised by Customer Service to use a home-made concoction as a spot cleaner…that backfired. So keep this in mind if purchasing medium to light colored luxury price-point garments with thin to tissue-thin leather. Ask the salesperson, or call Customer Services but get that info BEFORE you buy!

How to properly apply protection to new suede and nubuck

1. Fact: you need to do a very thorough job applying the protector. Have your suede brush handy for this. Brush the suede in the direction that lifts the fibers. Read the directions thoroughly before you start as they can vary from product to product. Most are flammable when wet and should be used in a well-ventilated area. Opening the window of your bathroom and treating the piece there will work for city-dwellers in winter. Spray thoroughly starting at one end and slowly work your way down. On a jacket do one front half, then the other, then each sleeve front and back, then the back. Similar approach for shoes and handbags. All those little fibers need to be coated with protector. Spraying like you’d use an air freshener won’t accomplish anything! If directions call for completely wetting the suede, do so. Unlike leather, when you clean suede, clean the entire panel or bag, or both shoes . Be gentle. Suede always loses a slight bit of color when cleaned, so spot-cleaning will result in a lighter “spot” where you worked on it. Pros always replace some dye with the conditioner when they clean and finish Uggs and other shearling or suede products.

2. Hang garments/handbags to dry from a plastic hanger, boots by their tops at each end of a skirt hanger, or plastic hanger with strong clothes pins, booties and shoes- soles on a surface. When thoroughly dry, brush the nap until your happy with the appearance. Extra points if you then brush the nap the other way and repeat the process!

3. You can protect your gloves as well; it greatly reduces staining. Wear one at a time as you clean and protect.

4. For suede furniture…unless its a small piece or simple chair seats… have a pro do this . I’ve made house calls where I applied such in their garage right after delivery or the pieces were sent to my studio. It’s a matter of which makes the most sense cost wise.

5. You can protect hair-hide, suede and leather rugs and wall installations as well but pro application is necessary in most cases.

   NOTE: If you’ve purchased “bonded”,“coated” or “stain-proof” leather furniture,…this is an entirely different category as it has a plastic coating. Sounds great, right? Problem is… in 6-10 years the plastic will start to “peel” and there’s NO way to successfully resolve this.

   Just as it took time to craft your item…so does proper maintenance. Care for it yourself or pay a pro, but you’ll thank me after that first guest spills on the sofa cushion or your coffee-to-go accidentally becomes “coffee-be-gone”!

That Luxury Leather Jacket-The Fine Leather Blog

There's a sad truth most retailers won't tell you... usually due to ignorance... but it affects you, the consumer: not every leather garment is low maintenance, and some will require considerable care with even moderate use. While this post addresses luxury and "bridge" price points, much of the following can be applied to jackets under 500.00 or so. 

I've had to listen to upset prospective customers too many times on how they spent good money (be it full price or sample sale) on a high-maintenance real leather jacket or coat that they assumed could be worn and tossed about like a durable full-grain leather Schott Perfecto motorcycle jacket (which is practically bullet-proof), and they now either have to pay me well to resolve the accident/ neglect or it’ll sit in the closet...an even more expensive choice if you go by "cost-per-wearing". For those coveting leather jackets from one of the major European or U.S luxury labels… some sage advice: there's more to the meaning of "Luxury" than just a name... 

Aside from presumed quality, "Luxury" also means the buyer can afford to have more than one jacket in rotation...which means less wear...and can dispose of it should they not wish to be bothered with resolving problems; which is more common than you think and not very "green". It's not unusual for me to be contacted by a housekeeper or an assistant requesting an estimate to repair what their employer handed off to them...often unaware of the item's value and the cost of the work necessary to resolve it's issue(s).

There are essentially two style categories of luxury leather garments; "workhorses" and "dress/special occasion". You the consumer need to know the difference. A good example of workhorses are those made by Belstaff, famous for their leather moto style jackets with their stand up collar and close fit. ....elegant yet durable for everyday wear. Overland makes their leather coats and jackets here in the U.S. A bomber jacket is usually made with durable cow leather. Will it get daily use? Be aware of your habits… do you stuff your pockets? Tend to throw your stuff over a chair? On the floor? You’ll need a workhorse.

On the "dress" side, a friend of mine sought my opinion on a gorgeous aniline Gucci calfskin jacket he had purchased at a sample sale. Made of what is essentially fine thin glove leather, it is buttery smooth to the touch and drapes beautifully. This is a dress style jacket. I told him the first scratch (and it WILL happen) will kill him, but over time the fine scratches will accumulate evenly and it will take on "character". There is usually an “awkward” stage from brand new to “seasoned character” with finer leathers. Consistent care will ease that transition. NOTE: items made of perforated lamb or calf leather are some of the most fragile. All those tiny holes perfectly lined up easily catch and tear. Additionally, any repair materials containing moisture or simple manipulation during repair can quickly disrupt that perfect pattern… there’s no way to restore it perfectly.

Fine thin leather has many enemies...pet's nails, sharp edges on storm doors/walls, exposed edges on the damaged upholstery of commuter trains ( very common!) and it's own zippers when tossed about. Even your car's shoulders belt is a hazard which can be tamed. Dress jackets also include lightweight versions...usually for women... that can be worn both indoors as part of an outfit or out in warmer weather. 

What's the color? There's a reason the majority of leather pieces are black leather or brown, dark gray or navy...they hide stains and soiling. Is it aniline leather? Aniline leather is drum dyed, otherwise untreated and will absorb any liquids/oils it comes in contact with. These should have protection applied after purchase and before using, no matter how tempted you are to wear it immediately. Any shade above a dark tan/medium gray leather requires more thought and effort by it's owner. That means no leaning against walls while waiting for your Uber, table, subway, etc. All that environmental dirt ...and God knows what else... will transfer onto the jacket and work it's way over time into the pores. Regardless of the quality of the leather...just don't!

The lighter the color of the leather, the more attention it requires. White? Understand that unless it's of very good quality, nothing screams "cheap" louder than poor quality white leather. If you own a good white leather garment, you should give it a quick once-over when you remove it after you arrive home. Now's the time to catch a light smudge on the sleeves, shoulders, etcetera with the appropriate cleaner and soft rags you've already got on hand...or put it aside for a weekend chore later…but don’t wear again before you’ve dealt with this. You don’t want to grind that soil in with further wear!

Be aware that like a white cotton shirt or tee… all white/cream/pale leathers will oxidize over time and take on a yellowish cast in varying degrees; but unlike shirts, you can't toss leather into the wash. Dry cleaning white leather usually hastens the yellowing ...to say nothing of removing the hide's oils. Eventually, the piece will require cleaning by a pro and refreshing the color back towards white. Ideally that pro "wet-cleans". There are very few who do this but it's worth seeking them out, even (and likely) if you have to ship it to them at the end of the season. Similar approaches …without laundering...apply to white handbags and the now trending white booties. A little consistent attention on light color leathers (or any color for that matter) goes a long way to saving serious $$$ on your leather wardrobe.

Bottom line: When buying a piece consider both the amount of use it will get on a monthly basis and your willingness to maintain it. Remember all real leather requires some degree of regular maintenance...be it handbags, shoes and other animal hide garments. Choose sturdier darker leathers for your daily "go-to's". And carefully examine all hardware, especially zippers. Sturdy name- brand zippers such as YKK are a good indicator of a quality piece. We’ll cover other leather/suede garments and care/prevention of great leather jackets in the next post.